5. Troubleshooting (*Pictures Coming Soon!!!)

Nothing Printing:

Check all of the settings mentioned from step 2 – step 3 just incase windows update has reverted your video display card settings.

Check the film in the resin tray to make sure that there isn’t any resin cured to the film, preventing the light from the projector from correctly projecting slices onto the build head.

Build Head submerged in resin (not printing):

If this occurs, it would be related to the software crashing, simply turn off the printer using the switch on the back of the printer, and then hand twist the threaded screw in the middle of the printer (the one with the 3 allen key screws in a triangular shape around it), until the head is completely out of the resin. Then proceed to take off the build head, and take off the resin tray. Turn the printer back on, empty out the resin tray, ensuring there is no cured resin remaining, clean off the build head, and then restart the printing process.

Models not attaching to build head:

If models are half attaching to the build head, try to increase your bottom layer exposure by 1 second(100milliseconds) and exposure time by 1 second (100milliseconds). If the problem persists, you will need to buy some 40 – 80 grit sand paper.

Sand the bottom side of the build head, to make the surface rougher, do this by moving the build head backwards and forwards first (continous movement for about 30-40 seconds), and then left to right, and then do it diagonally corner to corner (use pressure when doing this). After you have finished on the build head, proceed to use paper towel to remove the metal filaments that have come off the head, then use paper towel with water to do another clean of the build head. Repeat this process until your paper towel no longer turns silver from the cleaning process (any remaining filament on the build head may cause models to fall off during the printing process.

Once you’re at a point where the build head has been roughed up and cleaned, it is time to check the calibration of the head.

Build Head Calibration:

Home the 3d printer using Creation workshop.

Remove the Build Head and Resin Tray first.

(Connect to the printer, click on printer functions, turn on G-code and type $h (type it 2 times, the first time will give you a warning to make sure that the resin vat and build head are removed.)

After the printer is in the home position, put a piece of paper on the Quartz and attach the build head (be careful not to scratch the quartz)

Now slide out the paper, and try to slide it into each corner.

When sliding it into each corner ensure that each side has the correct tension, if one side is tighter than the other it will cause the resin to be pushed out during the print cycle(between the build head and the resin tray), and miss a few layers causing an issue with the print.

Make sure the paper slides into each corner with a snug fit, not too loose, but tight enough for the paper to struggle and require a little force to push it in.

If you notice that it is tighter on one side and looser on the other, undo the 4 screws (with the paper completely between the quartz and build head, apply a little bit of pressure on the build head, and tighten the screws in a diagonal fashion,  (front right, back left, back right, front left) and then check to see that there is an even gap between each corner using the sheet of paper (this may take a few tries to get right).

Once this stage is complete, raise the build head using creation workshop, close it and open solus contour and try running a print cycle.

Models ripping towards the middle/end of print and Supporting issues:

When you receive a new bottle of resin it is important that you shake it vigorously, for 2-3minutes, and then use a wooden stick to scrape the bottom of the resin bottle, and then shake it again for a further 1 minute.

Now imagine that the resin is paint, if the paint is not mixed properly the mixture will be inconsistent, and towards the end of the bottle if it hasn’t been correctly mixed it will have a higher concentration of pigment.

Once you have shaken the bottle and scraped it with a wooden stick, pour around 40ml into a plastic cup, which is shielded from UV light.

Proceed to mix that with a wooden stick and pour it into the resin tray, and proceed to print.

*We have noticed that if the resin bottle has not followed this process through the entire use of the bottle, models will tend to rip/have imperfections during the printing phase.

Another cause could be that the supports havn’t been placed in the correct locations, try to use a program such as b9 creator, to build supports, and ensure any elements of the model that are overhanging and may not be attached to the model have the correct supports in place so that they can join to the model correctly during the print cycle.

Film Care (Maintenance, Lifespan, Common Issues, Using with another resin):

During the printing process, you may find that from a failed print cycle, resin will get stuck to the film, to remove it, you can use a Pec Pad, and gently push the film from the underside of the resin tray, while using the Tweezers provided to gently remove the resin.

Another solution is to project a rectangle with resin in the resin tray, and leave it on for 20 seconds. untick the project option, and then gently push the underside of the film with a pec pad, and use the tweezers to remove the rectangle, which will cause any cured resin to come off in a clean piece, preserving the surface of the film.

If the film has bumps in it, or noticable damage it will cause issues during the printing of a model.

When switching to a new resin, unscrew the 8 screws that are in the resin tray, remove the film and wipe off any excess resin with a Pec Pad, wipe out any resin from the Tray and metal underside, put the film back on, line up the holes and screw it back together.

After doing this gently wipe the underside with a clean Pec pad, and then wipe out the inside of the resin tray.

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